Volcanoes National Park Rwanda

Volcanoes National Park, situated in Rwanda, proudly serves as one of the homes to the remaining population of mountain gorillas in the world.

Additionally, this Rwandan national park harbors five of the eight famous volcanic ranges in the Virunga Massif, which stretch across the Albertine Rift Valley, a part of the Great East African Rift Valley.

Volcanoes National Park is also home to several other wildlife species apart from mountain gorillas, including bushbucks, bush pigs, buffalos, elephants, forest hogs, golden monkeys, black-fronted duikers, black and white colobus monkeys, and olive baboons, to mention a few.

Volcanoes National Park is bordered by Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda and Virunga National Park in Congo. Both parks are also home to mountain gorillas, monkeys, forest elephants, and many other primates. Volcanoes National Park covers an area of 160 square kilometers.

The park was the base for the famous American primatologist Dian Fossey, who dedicated her life to the study and conservation of mountain gorillas. She established an institute that still stands today, known as the Karisoke Research Institute.

History of Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

Volcanoes National Park was part of Albert National Park, established in 1925 to protect the endangered mountain gorillas. It comprises areas of Mount Karisimbi, Mount Bisoke, and Mount Mikeno. The park’s boundaries were extended to Belgian Congo in 1929, covering 8,090 square kilometers.

In 1958, 700 hectares of the park’s land were cleared for human settlement, and more areas were cleared between the 1960s and 1973 for pyrethrum farming. In 1967, the famous American primatologist Dian Fossey arrived at the park to research and study mountain gorillas.

Dian Fossey founded the Karisoke Research Institute in Ruhengeri Province between Mount Karisimbi and Mount Bisoke.

The institute’s name combines the first four letters of “Karisimbi” and the last four letters of “Bisoke.” Covering 25 square kilometers, the locals nicknamed Dian Fossey “Nyirmachabelli,” meaning “the woman who lives alone in the mountains.”

Fossey conducted extensive research on mountain gorillas and appeared on the cover of National Geographic magazine in 1970. Despite laws against poaching, the park’s staff and rangers did not strictly enforce them, leading to many gorilla deaths for bushmeat and zoos. Dominant silverbacks and mothers protecting infants often fought to protect their families, sometimes resulting in death.

Dian Fossey created the Digit Fund to combat poaching. Within four months, 987 poachers’ traps were destroyed near the Karisoke Research Institute.

Her determination grew stronger when her favorite gorilla, Digit, was killed. Sadly, Fossey was murdered on December 27, 1985, but her work laid the foundation for mountain gorilla conservation efforts today.

In 1992, the park headquarters were attacked, buildings were burned, and several rangers were killed.

The 1994 Rwanda civil wars also heavily impacted the park, causing its closure and the abandonment of the research center until 1999. Although there have been occasional rebel infiltrations, these have been suppressed, and the park is now safe for tourism.

Top Things to Do in Volcanoes National Park

Below are some of the top things to do in Volcanoes National Park.

Gorilla Trekking

The main activity in Volcanoes National Park is gorilla trekking, one of the most accessible experiences in Rwanda. To trek mountain gorillas, visitors need a Rwanda gorilla permit costing $1,500. Discounted permits are available for $1,050 in May and November if tourists spend at least three days in Rwanda and visit another national park.

Essential trekking gear includes waterproof hiking boots, gardening gloves, insect repellent, sunglasses, hats, long-sleeved clothing, raincoats, jackets, warm clothing, and other items.

Trekking begins early in the morning with a briefing at the park headquarters, where tourists learn about gorillas and the rules for trekking.

Groups are assigned based on age and fitness levels, with older or less fit individuals allocated to nearby families and more energetic hikers sent to distant families.

The trek can take 1 to 3 hours, depending on the gorillas’ location. Tourists with illnesses like flu or cough are not allowed to trek, as these diseases can harm gorillas with weak immune systems.

Once the gorilla family is located, visitors spend one hour observing and photographing them while guides explain their behavior and answer questions.

Birding

Volcanoes National Park is a paradise for Rwandan bird-watchers, with 178 recorded bird species, including 13 species and 26 subspecies endemic to the region. Some notable birds include Grauer’s swamp warbler, Rwenzori turaco, Rwenzori double-collared sunbird, Archer’s robin-chat, handsome francolin, scarlet-tufted malachite sunbird, dusky turtle dove, dusky crimson wing, Baglafecht weaver, African long-eared owl, brown-necked parrot, Doherty’s bush shrike, red-faced woodland warbler, strange weaver, and Rwenzori nightjar, among others.

Mountain Gorilla Families in Volcanoes National Park

Volcanoes National Park is home to over 15 mountain gorilla families that roam the foothills of the Virunga Mountains. You can visit these groups during your Rwanda gorilla trekking tours. Below are some of the most popular gorilla groups in the park:

Bwenge Gorilla Family: The Bwenge mountain gorilla family gets its name from a local word meaning “wisdom.” This group was featured in the movie Gorillas in the Mist. The family was formed in 2007 when the dominant silverback, Bwenge, broke away from his family. You can trek this group from the slopes of Karisoke, located between Mount Karisimbi and Mount Bisoke.
Ugenda Gorilla Family: The Ugenda mountain gorilla family derives its name from a local word meaning “on the move.” This family is known for constantly moving from place to place, making it challenging to track. The group roams around the Karisimbi slopes and has 11 members, including two silverbacks.
Hirwa Gorilla Family: The Hirwa mountain gorilla family was formed by combining members who split off from the Sabinyo and Agashya gorilla families. This family is known for having twins born in 2011.
Kwitonda Gorilla Family: The Kwitonda mountain gorilla family can be trekked on the slopes of Mount Muhabura. The group’s name comes from the dominant silverback, Kwitonda, meaning “Humble one.” This family is said to have migrated from the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Agashya Gorilla Family: Also known as Group 13, this family is dominated by the silverback Agashya, who took over leadership from the Nyakarima silverback. The group can be trekked around Mount Sabinyo. Agashya is known for leading his family to higher slopes when sensing danger.
Sabyinyo Gorilla Family: The name Sabyinyo means “old worn-out teeth” in the local language. This group derives its name from Mount Sabyinyo, one of the Virunga ranges. It is dominated by Guhonda, the heaviest silverback in Volcanoes National Park. This group inhabits the slopes of Mount Sabyinyo and Mount Gahinga and is one of the easiest families to trek.
Umubano Gorilla Family: This family was formed when Charles broke away from his natal group after fighting with Ubumwe, the dominant silverback. The group’s name means “Living together” and has 13 members, including two silverbacks.
Amahoro Gorilla Family: The Amahoro mountain gorilla family, meaning “peace,” can be trekked from the slopes of Mount Bisoke. It is one of the most peaceful families in the park, though it lost some members to the Umubano family.
Karisimbi Gorilla Family: Also known as the Susa B family, this group broke away from the Susa A family in 2008. It is one of the most challenging families to trek, as it inhabits the higher slopes of Mount Karisimbi. The group has 16 members, including two silverbacks.
Susa A Gorilla Family: This family, once studied by Dian Fossey, was one of the largest families, with 42 members before it split. It is known for having twins, Impano and Bwishimo. The group can be trekked near the Susa River on the slopes of Mount Karisimbi.
Titus Gorilla Family: This family, researched by Dian Fossey, is named after its silverback, Titus. The silverback overcame challenges, including losing his family to poachers, to lead the group.

Booking Rwanda Gorilla Permits

A gorilla permit allows a person to trek mountain gorillas in their natural habitat. Permits can be obtained through a trusted local tour operator or the Rwanda Development Board.

Permits are only issued to persons aged 15 and above. Travelers are advised to book their permits at least three months in advance, especially during the peak season, as demand is high. Carry your permit on the trekking day, as you will need to present it.

People showing signs of illness, such as flu or cough, are not allowed to trek gorillas to prevent transmitting diseases to the animals, which have weak immune systems.

Rwanda offers a luxury gorilla trekking experience, with permits costing $1,500 per person per trek, compared to $800 in Uganda and $400 in Congo. Discounted permits are available in May and November at $1,050 if you spend at least three days in Rwanda and visit another national park.

Is There Gorilla Habituation in Volcanoes National Park?

Gorilla habituation involves training gorillas to get used to human presence, a process that takes 2–3 years. Rwanda does not offer gorilla habituation.

This experience is only available in the Rushaga sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda.

When to Visit Volcanoes National Park

Gorilla trekking is available year-round, but the best time to visit is during the short dry season from December to February and the long dry season from June to September.

The wet season makes roads to the park challenging and trekking trails muddy and slippery.

Temperatures average 22°C during the day and drop to 12°C at night, with annual rainfall ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 mm.

Getting There – Location of Volcanoes National Park

Volcanoes National Park is located in the northwestern part of Rwanda, bordering Virunga National Park in Congo and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda.